We said adios to Tokyo, taking a taxi to Ueno station. Our next train was taking us 2.5 hours northwest to Kusatsu in Gunma prefecture (after a bus connection). As the bus went up further into the mountains we started seeing snow, and eventually it started snowing. West of us a bit Japan had a massive snowstorm go through that clogged and iced up transport. Luckily we weren't affected and when we head that way tomorrow things should be running OK.
Kusatsu is a mountain town with a natural hot spring (Onsen) that comes out at a fairly blazing 122-201 degrees F. The hotels and baths around it use the water for bathing after it's cooled. Using other water to cool it would dilute the medicinal properties of the water which is a high mineral content (good for skin) and fairly high acidity (good for skin conditions like eczema) The main spring in town Yubatake has the water flow down wooden troughs in a long series of waterfalls which let's the air cool it. That cooled water is then piped around town. Another method barely used now except for demonstration is by paddling the water into the air stirring it which does significantly cool it.
We got off our bus and headed down the hill to our Ryokan (traditional inn including meal, turndown, and onsen in this case). The weather matched Minnesota here, high of 24 I think which makes it cozier. The Ryokan is called Nyakamuraya which has about 6 or 7 cats wandering around to play with.
We dropped off our bags and left to check out town. The lady running it is very nice. She didn't speak English but had English instructions for how to use the baths and dining. We scheduled our times for dinner and breakfast.
We took some pictures, enjoyed the sulfury air, saw the town mascot,and watched the show of ladies performing the water cooling. Its all very fun touristy although some of the gals doing the show looked like they'd been doing it since it started in 1960 and had run out of stream years go. But it was very neat, got some great video. Also there was a cute little yakitori hut/stand right outside our hotel so we grabbed a couple chicken skewers.
After going back and relaxing in our room we went to dinner. This was the most Japanese meal we've ever had. We tried to eat everything although failed, it was a lot of food. Some good, some great, some difficult. Some things went well, others not. Part of the layout included an iron pot with a ceramic lid and flame beneath it. Inside was wax paper (maybe) and a piece of tallow. We then had mushrooms, beef, and veg to cook on it. Very early on I dropped a piece of meat on the floor and trying to pick it up quickly before anyone saw I put my finger against the very very hot iron pot. Unfortunate but its fine. I still ate the meat. I also dropped my chopstick and continued to use it. Don't judge, I also couldn't communicate super well with the server who spoke no English and spoke quite quickly without gestures. But again luckily there were English instructions. We sat on pillows on tatami mat. The proper seating is feet tucked under your butt, not crossing. I did that for a while then my feet would fall asleep and I'd alternate between crossing my legs. Here's the food we ate which the english menu/instructions mostly identified:
-Grilled beef, mushrooms, vegetables
-Cod Roe
-Edamame and bacon in saffron and sauce
-Skewered grill river fish
-Tofu with fresh wasabi
-Slice of roast beef
-Small Seaweed salad
-Seaweed/greens? Salad that had tiny lil fish guys in it
-Fried sardine? With some pickled veg
-Mushroom soup
-Barley, pumpkin, something else porridge type meal. I'm sorry I'm so vague, really not sure on some things. The white thing in it was moist and neutralize?
-Salmon sashimi
-Rainbow Trout sashimi. This one was wild in how absent of flavor it was. Its like konjac but maybe even milder, so pretty ok with soy wasabi/garlic.
-Venison sashimi (more like rare with seared edges) was delicious
-Green asparagus stalk like veg in wasabi sauce
-Slices of daikon reddish i think
-Grilled mochi with sweet sauce
-For dessert pineapple, kiwi, and a Lil tiny piece of like a crepe layered cake
Phew. We got through quite a bit. Japan is big on eat everything/don't waste but man it was a lot. I only ate the tail half end of the fried sardine. Sarah was a trooper too as she doesn't care for fish but tried and ate most of all but that sardine. We were there 2nd to last to leave of 5 groups (only 10 rooms in the hotel) We thanked our server and headed back.
While we ate they were doing turndown service on our room. Moved the table and organized our stuff and laid out the futon we're sleeping on tonight. I love em, bit too hard for Sarah, I get it.
After tending to my burned finger against bit with water we went down to the basement where the onsen are. They have 4 rooms you can use anytime. There's a sign to flip to show its occupied but the door also latches. Entry room to get ready and then in the room with the onsen a stool, shampoo and body wash to get clean before entering. All standard stuff. 3 of the 4 were occupied and luckily got that 4th as another couple we could hear come in after us. Great soak, water temp was nice and I avoided dunking my burned finger. Great success!
Got a couple train bento for the trip. They weren't great, Sarah had a Tonkatsu one. Little expensive but fun to try
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